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Polynucleotides Explained: The Science Behind Skin Regeneration

21 March 20266 min read

What Are Polynucleotides?

Polynucleotides have rapidly emerged as one of the most scientifically compelling treatments in modern aesthetic medicine. Unlike many cosmetic treatments that mask or temporarily correct signs of ageing, polynucleotides work at the cellular level to genuinely regenerate skin tissue.

At their most basic, polynucleotides are chains of nucleotides — the building blocks of DNA. The polynucleotides used in aesthetic treatments are derived from purified salmon DNA (Oncorhynchus mykiss), which shares a remarkably similar structure to human DNA. Through an extensive purification process, all proteins and potential allergens are removed, leaving only the bioactive DNA fragments.

When injected into the skin, these fragments don't alter your genetics in any way. Instead, they act as biological signals that wake up your skin's repair machinery from within.

30+
years of polynucleotide research in medicine
3–4
sessions for optimal results
6–12 mo
results duration per course

The Science: How They Work

Understanding the mechanism behind polynucleotides helps explain why they produce such genuinely different results compared to other injectable treatments.

Step 1: Fibroblast Activation

Polynucleotides bind to A2A purinergic receptors on fibroblast cell surfaces. Fibroblasts are the cells responsible for producing collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans — the structural components that keep skin firm, elastic, and hydrated.

Step 2: Extracellular Matrix Rebuilding

Once activated, fibroblasts increase production of extracellular matrix components. In simpler terms, they start rebuilding the scaffolding that gives your skin its structure. This process also improves tissue hydration and reduces chronic inflammation.

Step 3: Tissue Regeneration

Over weeks, the cumulative effect is genuine tissue regeneration — not just cosmetic improvement. Skin becomes measurably thicker, more elastic, and better hydrated at a structural level.

The key difference: Fillers add something to your face. Anti-wrinkle injections relax muscles. But polynucleotides stimulate your skin to heal and rebuild itself. The results develop gradually as new collagen forms, and they continue improving with each session.

Scientific note: Published studies have demonstrated measurable improvements in skin elasticity (up to 33% increase), hydration levels, and dermal thickness following polynucleotide treatment courses. These aren't just cosmetic observations — they're objective, measurable biological changes.

Polynucleotides vs Fillers vs Skin Boosters

One of the most common questions is how polynucleotides compare to other injectable treatments. The answer: they serve fundamentally different purposes and work through entirely different mechanisms.

Polynucleotides

  • Regenerates skin cells
  • Stimulates collagen production
  • Improves skin quality at cellular level
  • Results build over weeks
  • 3–4 sessions needed
  • Lasts 6–12 months

Dermal Fillers

  • Adds volume and structure
  • Immediate visible results
  • Treats specific areas
  • Results visible same day
  • 1 session typical
  • Lasts 6–18 months

Skin Boosters

  • Delivers deep hydration
  • Improves skin surface quality
  • Broad-area treatment
  • Results in 2–4 weeks
  • 2–3 sessions needed
  • Lasts 6–12 months

Many clients achieve the best results by combining treatments. For example, polynucleotides for cellular-level skin quality paired with dermal fillers for structural volume creates a comprehensive rejuvenation approach. Read our detailed comparison: skin boosters vs fillers.

Treatment Areas

Polynucleotides are versatile and can be used across multiple facial and body zones. The thin, delicate skin in certain areas responds particularly well to the hydrating and regenerative effects.

AreaKey BenefitSessionsIdeal For
Under-eyesReduces dark circles, firms crepey skin3–4Hollow, tired-looking eyes
Full faceOverall texture, elasticity, glow3–4General skin ageing
NeckFirms lax skin, reduces horizontal lines3–4Neck ageing, crepiness
DécolletageSun damage repair, texture improvement3–4Sun-damaged chest skin
Acne scarringStimulates repair of scar tissue4–6Rolling and atrophic scars
HandsImproves skin quality and hydration3–4Ageing, thin hand skin

Most popular area: The under-eye zone is where polynucleotides truly shine. The thin, delicate skin here doesn't always respond well to filler, but polynucleotides improve hydration, reduce darkness, and firm the tissue without adding volume. It's a game-changer for tired-looking eyes. Learn more in our tear trough treatment guide.

What to Expect

Knowing what happens at each stage removes uncertainty and helps you prepare for the best possible experience.

1

Consultation

Skin assessment, goal setting, treatment planning

2

Numbing

Topical anaesthetic applied 20–30 mins before

3

Treatment

Series of micro-injections across the treatment area

4

Aftercare

Small bumps resolve in 24–48 hrs. Avoid makeup 12 hrs

5

Review

Next session booked 2–4 weeks later

The treatment involves a series of micro-injections across the treatment area. It's well-tolerated by most clients, with minimal discomfort. You may notice small bumps at the injection sites immediately afterwards — these typically resolve within twenty-four to forty-eight hours. There's no significant downtime, though we recommend avoiding makeup for twelve hours post-treatment.

Results Timeline

Patience is key with polynucleotides. Unlike filler where you see results immediately, polynucleotide results build gradually as your skin's cellular machinery responds to the treatment.

TimeframeWhat You'll Notice
Week 1–2Initial hydration boost, slight glow. Injection bumps resolve.
Week 3–4Improved skin texture. Fine lines begin softening. Second session.
Week 6–8Visible improvement in elasticity and firmness. Third session.
Month 3Peak collagen production. Skin noticeably firmer, smoother, more radiant.
Month 4–6Ongoing improvement as collagen remodelling continues.
Month 6–12Maintenance phase. Consider maintenance session to sustain results.

Cumulative results: Most clients begin to notice improved skin texture and hydration after their first session, with optimal results after a course of three to four treatments. The improvements continue for several months after the final session as new collagen continues to form.

Are You a Good Candidate?

Polynucleotide therapy is well-suited to all skin types and tones. You may be an ideal candidate if you're experiencing:

  • Fine lines and crepey skin — especially under the eyes, neck, and décolletage
  • Dull, tired-looking skin that doesn't respond to topical products alone
  • Loss of skin elasticity and firmness
  • Acne scarring or post-inflammatory changes
  • Overall skin ageing and wanting a regenerative (not just cosmetic) approach

Polynucleotides pair beautifully with other treatments — many clients combine them with microneedling or anti-wrinkle injections as part of a comprehensive skin health plan. Read more about Rejuran in our detailed guide: Rejuran: The Next Generation of Skin Healing.

Common Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

Yes. Polynucleotide-based treatments have been used in medicine for decades, including in wound healing and ophthalmology. The purification process removes all proteins and potential allergens, making adverse reactions extremely rare.

Most clients see optimal results after three to four sessions spaced two to four weeks apart. Maintenance treatments every three to six months help sustain the regenerative benefits long term.

They serve different purposes. Polynucleotides improve skin quality, texture, and hydration, while fillers add structural volume. For clients who want better skin quality without adding volume, polynucleotides are an excellent standalone option. For others, they complement filler treatments beautifully.

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